HELP

Best tyres, Suspension setup, Accessories...
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cbr1100
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HELP

Post by cbr1100 »

Just got the BB fully serviced and 20 miles later when i came off it due to large amount of oil discharging from ruptured oil pipe from the engine to the top of the oil cooler dumping oil over the rear wheel...... :(

Got a new pipe ordered and it arrived so i took the fairings off to change it for a new one did the top 10mm bolts no probs, noticed the ones at the engine side were tight so lubed them up left them overnight and went to remove them the next day and easily managed to sheer both 10 mm bolt heads off flush with the engine bolt holes.............

Anyone got any tools or ideas to how i can remove or assist me getting them out, so P*ssed off with myself for doing this, any help would be greatly appreciated. :2up :2up
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Akrapovic
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Re: HELP

Post by Akrapovic »

What about an "easy out" thingmy? Had an issue where the sparkplug decided to part from the threads on the GSX750R and JB rebel sent me off to get a shot of this tool that did the trick.

Might work?

http://www.ted-kyte.com/3D/Pictures/Easy%20Out.jpg
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airwave
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Re: HELP

Post by airwave »

get a good sharp center punch and use it to mark the center of the remains of the bolts.

Get a good sharp (new) 1.5 - 2mm drill bit and _carefully_ (i.e. slowly) drill into the bolt.

you _must_ have made a good "center" with the center punch first otherwise the drill bit will wander off the bolt and into the alloy (which is much easier to drill)

then, once you have a 5-10 mm deep hole in the bolt, use slightly larger drill bits to open up the hole until you think you may be getting close to the threads on the outside of the bolt or until the remains of the bolt stick to the drill.

then, and only then, use an easy out (left hand thread doofer)

take yer time or you'll hole alloy.
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Newbus
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Re: HELP

Post by Newbus »

If you can get in with a Mig welder . Try putting dab of weld on the part of stud left in the casing let it cool a bit then put on another dab of weld keep building up till you can get a nut over the weld . Then put a nut over the top of the weld and weld the nut to the weld on the stud. Often the heating and cooling of the stud and casing will then allow the stud to be removed.If that dont work the drill and rethread option is last measure.
chewbacca
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Re: HELP

Post by chewbacca »

forget the easy outs route,recipe for disaster,probably the most inappropriately named tool ever,would do as airwave suggests,secret is getting your pilot hole bang on centre,start small and work your way up to maybe 9mm by that time there's very little left you can normally pick out whats left with something sharp,if it hasn't already come out.

good luck
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RK6
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Re: HELP

Post by RK6 »

Don't think i'd be much help with this one Gary but i'll easy head out as an exra set of hands. :2up
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Zathos
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Re: HELP

Post by Zathos »

It is probably worth making up a simple jig for the drill to ensure the angle remains constant while drilling.

Doesn't need to be complicated, just something to help hold the drill square to the hole.
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cbr1100
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Re: HELP

Post by cbr1100 »

Anyone fancy a homer....... :2up
i recently had surgery and am a bit fragile for doing this at the moment, coffee, sanny's on the go....... :2up
need to get the wheels back on the road :biggrin2


Pop out any time Rowan, the kettle is always on..... :2up
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RK6
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Re: HELP

Post by RK6 »

I'll nip out when I get my bike back on the road (next week hopefully). :cool
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Gazza
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Re: HELP

Post by Gazza »

airwave wrote:get a good sharp center punch and use it to mark the center of the remains of the bolts.

Get a good sharp (new) 1.5 - 2mm drill bit and _carefully_ (i.e. slowly) drill into the bolt.

you _must_ have made a good "center" with the center punch first otherwise the drill bit will wander off the bolt and into the alloy (which is much easier to drill)

then, once you have a 5-10 mm deep hole in the bolt, use slightly larger drill bits to open up the hole until you think you may be getting close to the threads on the outside of the bolt or until the remains of the bolt stick to the drill.

then, and only then, use an easy out (left hand thread doofer)

take yer time or you'll hole alloy.
:stupid

Try to use an easy out an earlier than this and the easy out will be what you'll be looking to drill out. It will simply snap off in the hole and the hardened steel will complete ruin any chance you ever had.
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cbr1100
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Re: HELP

Post by cbr1100 »

Thanks for the advice folks :2up
Still be happier if I can get someone to do it for me....
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Antf3
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Re: HELP

Post by Antf3 »

I could lend you an easy out set, but i aint doing it, had to use it on two bolts a while back.
Bloody ell its a nightmare to use.
And yes i agree so inappropriately named, but it did work for me, took me a few hours with a few choice words.
Kids kept a wide birth that day

But as i said it's here if i can find it, i will hae a look anight and if you let me ken.

And let the fun begin
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steve
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Re: HELP

Post by steve »

i would avoid easy-outs at all costs , the chances of you drilling the hole for them straight and in the middle of the bolt are very slim indeed , and if you were to snap the easy out you would be in a much worse position than you are now

i would opt for the idea Newbus mentioned and try an weld a nut onto the bolt

can the part with the snapped bolts be removed from the bike ? (sorry i cant really picture in my mind what your talking about)
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Zathos
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Re: HELP

Post by Zathos »

I would offer to help, but the disaster potential is high. In the past I've tried to drill out stuck bolts a few times and it has never gone well :(

Realy wouldn't want to hamfist someone else's machine :oops
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