AberdeenBikers

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:24 pm**

Zax wrote:I took round an electronic copy of the R1 manualand had a little look at the exhausts.
It looks like they have never been off the bike and even though all the bolds are loose, the braded copper exhaust gaskets are not for budging.
They are just a friction fit but by-flukk they are on tight.

The bolt a the bottom of the Y piece is corroded solid as well so it looks like it has never been off either.

Would be a lot simpler if the previous owner had copperslipped up the bolts.

Those gaskets are a pain in the arse! It once took me and a mate over 6 hours to get the exhaust off my 1st Bandit.

When you do get the thing a part I would recommend putting a smear of high temperature silicone gasket compound on one of the mating surfaces. You have to let it go off but it will seal any small gaps and will prevent the surfaces from corroding together.

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:25 pm**

'04 plate by the look of it.

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:26 pm**

rowan if you need a blowtorch i have a surplus to requirments one with plenty o gas left. just let me know if you want it

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:28 pm**

Good man

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:37 pm**

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote: Who needs a garage! How do you know you can do something until you try?

How long ye gonna keep flogging that pic up.

All those sheds and you do it outside?

JT52 wrote: ha ha ha your havin a laugh aint you ??? where do these trained professionals work ??? i stopped putting my bike into Yamahahahaha because of the bafoons they had workin there at the time !!! i would much rather do any work on my bikes myself

Well I can't vouch for that Ecosse, however I have put many bikes into McGowans and Stuart and co have always done a great job.

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:54 pm**

Anyway, the important thing about this thread is;

WTF are A&R Race Baffles?

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:00 pm**

Rowan the cat is built into the Y piece on these bikes , try loosening off everything bolting that to the bike an u might have a bit more luck , ive got spare standard cans an a Y piece for sale if u make a horlicks of anythin

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:06 pm**

iv a phone number of a good mechanic if you want it

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:07 pm**

Dickie wrote:Anyway, the important thing about this thread is;

WTF are A&R Race Baffles?

You take the standard cans off the bike open the end cap up remove standard noise killing baffles and repack canins insert Special race baffle to make the can more of a straight through, pop rivett all back together and the job is done .

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:15 pm**

And I thought under-seat exhausts were cool!

Glad I didn't help on this one...

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:32 pm**

I'm no mechanic so can't offer any advice. I would say that heating might help though.

I'll be a cheerleader and say - Stick at it, nothing more satisfying than doing a job yourself!

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:38 pm**

I recently had this job done on the XJR. Changed the 22mm baffles for 42mm numbers and what a difference to the sound. Pity one of them is vibrating as the pop rivets on one side are a bit loose. Still, for Â£40 what a brilliant modification.

When Rowan finishes the task I will be keen to hear the difference and if its as good as the XJR now, then I will be getting it done to my R1 aswell.

Albiet, I will get someone else to do it for me!!!

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:52 pm**

meepmeep wrote:
doogle wrote:maybe you need to get someone that knows what there doing before you wreck your bike.

Agree. If you can afford a bike like that, you can afford to have it worked on by trained professionals.

RK6 wrote: @ Dave, you're right in saying that the clips shouldn't come off but one of them snapped so there's not much I can do there.
Think that kinda proves doogles point.

My advice. Put it all back together and get it booked in before you break something a bit more essential.

Posted: **Sun Jan 04, 2009 11:42 pm**

@ Meep, I'm not a mechanical retard, just a bit special!

Thinking about it now, I really wouldn't be comfortable putting my bike into Ecosse just to have the cans removed!

I'm mean come on FFS, it's supposed to be a mega simple job!

In other words, thank you for your cynical advice It's duly noted but I've chosen to completely ignore it!

Dave (Zax) came round this evening to lend a hand and assure me that I wasn't missing anything blatantly obvious.

From the looks of things, the mesh gasket has seized itself onto both halves of the pipes and as a result will not budge!

The next step (Dave's plan) is to heat the things up and have another go with ratchet straps to gain the torque required to get the job done!

I would remove the undertray if I could but the cans need to come off to release the damn thing!

Score at the end of round three:

Rowan & Co - 0
Rowan's bike - 3

Should of bought a Honda.

Posted: **Mon Jan 05, 2009 1:09 am**

Word of advice for everybody......

When you want to release something that's tight, use a proper penetrating oil. WD40 is good, but it's a multi-purpose oil, a releasing agent being just one of those purposes.

A dedicated penetrating oil will be much better for a really difficult job.

Example

Posted: **Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:12 am**

RK6 wrote:@ Meep, I'm not a mechanical retard, just a bit special!

Thinking about it now, I really wouldn't be comfortable putting my bike into Ecosse just to have the cans removed!

I'm mean come on FFS, it's supposed to be a mega simple job!

In other words, thank you for your cynical advice It's duly noted but I've chosen to completely ignore it!

Dave (Zax) came round this evening to lend a hand and assure me that I wasn't missing anything blatantly obvious.

From the looks of things, the mesh gasket has seized itself onto both halves of the pipes and as a result will not budge!

The next step (Dave's plan) is to heat the things up and have another go with ratchet straps to gain the torque required to get the job done!

I would remove the undertray if I could but the cans need to come off to release the damn thing!

Score at the end of round three:

Rowan & Co - 0
Rowan's bike - 3

Should of bought a <FONT COLOR="#FF00FF">Honda</FONT>.

like i said rowan. i do have the number of a good mechanic if you want it and he has a honda too for sale.

Posted: **Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:58 am**

Gazza wrote:Word of advice for everybody......

When you want to release something that's tight, use a proper penetrating oil. WD40 is good, but it's a multi-purpose oil, a releasing agent being just one of those purposes.

A dedicated penetrating oil will be much better for a really difficult job.

Example

Good call Gazza!

Been looking online at the local stores webpages to see where I can pick some up. . .

Found many different products, mainly freeze and release style!

Will nip round to Autosave at lunchtime and pick some up.

Hope it makes a difference.

Cheers

Posted: **Mon Jan 05, 2009 11:26 am**

I just hope it works

Posted: **Mon Jan 05, 2009 4:40 pm**

This might help ....

Yamaha use some weird sticky gungie horrid material as exhaust gaskets, its soft and squeezes itself into every nook and cranny, then damn near welds itself in place .... no amount of banging and soaking seems to free it ....
only way I have found is to twist the joint and break the bond ... granted there isnt much room to twist it ... best of luck

Posted: **Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:01 pm**

teamemmenracing wrote:This might help ....

Yamaha use some weird sticky gungie horrid material as exhaust gaskets, its soft and squeezes itself into every nook and cranny, then damn near welds itself in place .... no amount of banging and soaking seems to free it ....
only way I have found is to twist the joint and break the bond ... granted there isnt much room to twist it ... best of luck

Sounds about right by the feel of the cans. They certainly don't want to come off!

I'll try and find a way to get enough torque on the can to twist it free tonight. Just bought some freeze and release so I'm hoping that may help a little bit!

There's definitely a copper wire gasket in there so I'm presuming they've clarted that in the said glupe and over time the two pipes have fused themselves to it!

Cheers Yamaha

Posted: **Tue Jan 06, 2009 12:27 am**

Well, the cans are finally off!

Many thanks to Dave for coming round yet again to lend a hand and prove his bodging wizardry!

It only took half a tin of WD, most of a tin of freeze and release, lots of heat from the blowtorch and a few bashes with the hammer along with a ratchet strap to get the torque required to twist them off!

Quite funny really.

One of the reasons I failed so miserably was my lack of decent tools.

I'll be hitting B&Q on payday to sort that out.

In the middle of fitting the new baffles as we speak. 1 down so far but i'll probably just leave the other till tomorrow night as its been a long day!

Will post pictures when they're complete and back on the bike.

Thanks to all who contributed with advice.

Rowan

Posted: **Wed Jan 07, 2009 5:52 am**

Congrats

tenacity wins again

Posted: **Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:41 am**

Stew wrote:I'm a cheerleader and say - Suck at it, nothing more satisfying than doing a job yourself!

AberdeenBikers

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