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Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 8:16 pm
by oollit
Another gem from electrosport....
http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/f ... iagram.pdf
Should point you in the right direction
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:43 pm
by Akrapovic
Coddy wrote:Bad earth somewhere
More like "Bad luck somewhere".
When will it end Rowan?

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:06 pm
by Dave
switch for heated grips
I believe the Oxford switch is great for letting current thru at what ever position the switch is

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:17 pm
by al
Dave wrote:switch for heated grips
I believe the Oxford switch is great for letting current thru at what ever position the switch is

Hence why I tend to power all accessories through a and auxiliary fuse box who's supply is switched on and off with a relay so it only powered up when the ignition is on.
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:09 pm
by RK6
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote:RK6 wrote:Took my bike up to Shirlaws on Thursday for the ZX-10 launch night & my battery died again. Turns out bump starting between traffic lights on Crown street when the roads are greasy isn't much fun...
I've had another look at the bike since then & can't figure out why the battery keeps dying. I replaced it last month before the connector was fixed and it was fully charged last week but still seems to die after even the smallest of runs or more than a few days without charging.
Is there a way to check if my aternators actually working or if anything is draining power?
Any idea if there should be return wires from the alternator to the battery or do the 2 main power cables incorporate a return feed?

The generator (sometimes incorrectly referred to as an alternator) is a 3 phase jobbie so will have three wired that connect to the regulator rectifier. The other two wires on the regulator rectifier connect to the 12v system to power the bike and charge the battery.
Are you sure the problem isn't either your Reg/Rect or the generator itself?
Here are a couple of articles which may be of use.
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/Tro ... G-&-RR.pdf
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-r ... -guide.pdf
Have you disconnected the battery from the bike and hooked it up to an optimate to tests its health?
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian)(master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).
2 excellent links, cheers Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian)!
I'll have a bash at running through the fault diagnosis this weekend, hopefully It'll help me figure out whats causing the problem.
The battery was bought last month and was charged again last night so it should be all fine. I thought the previous one was toast however it's now looking more likely that there was a problem elsewhere which was draining the power or stopping it from charging correctly.
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 2:51 pm
by RK6
After searching a few of the R1 forums and speaking to a few folk in the know; it's looking likely to be my Stator thats bit the dust as they're renowned for needing replaced every now and again on the 5PW R1.
Apparently the battery would start cooking if the regulator / rectifier was broken & that doesn't seem to be happening so the stator is sounding like a reasonably safe bet.
The OEM part from Yamaha is £356.00 so i'll definitely be on a mission to confirm this theory with a multimeter before I take the plunge.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:01 pm
by Zathos
Need to do an IR test on the stator to identify any problems. A normal multimeter wont be able to test for this.
Get hold of a megger and use that to test the stator Insulation Resistance (IR).
Oh, and if you do plan to do an IR test....please can I come and watch

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:11 pm
by cbr1100
Rowan,
Sell tickets, this sounds like a spectator

sport.......
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:19 pm
by RK6
Tickets will be £50 each, proceeds will help pay for the new stator.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:23 pm
by Zathos
£50 to watch Rowan using a Megger.....
......so tempting

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:30 pm
by RK6
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:37 pm
by Zathos
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:41 pm
by RK6
Megger + Rowan =
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) posted a link that showed a way of fault testing the stator using a standard multimeter so I reckon i'll give that a bash before destroying myself with a Megger!

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Tue Feb 08, 2011 6:24 pm
by sneezey
Zathos wrote:Oh, and if you do plan to do an IR test....please can I come and watch

Can I come too, been a while since I've seen an apprentice plating himself

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:01 pm
by RK6
Well, I've determined that my stators definitely goosed! I ditched the multimeter in favor of the; is it black & does it smell like burnt pork test.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:25 am
by RK6
More advice required.
Does anyone know if solder shrink connectors are any good?
I've got my new Stator but it doesn't have the connector plug on the end so I need to attach the connector from the goosed windings to get it hooked up to the RR.
I can't remove the wires from the plug so I was going to connect the wires sticking out the back of the plug to the wires of the stator cable instead. It's the one in the picture below but it seems like it's designed to not allow them back out once they've been fitted.
I've scanned around online for different crimp, socket & bullet connectors but I figured the solder shrink coupled with some heat shrink would be better?
I'm heading over to RS Components at lunch time to get all the stuff I need so any suggestions on that front are more than welcome!

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 12:23 pm
by al
RK6 wrote:so any suggestions on that front are more than welcome!

Get a grownup to help you!
Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 1:09 pm
by RK6
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote:RK6 wrote:so any suggestions on that front are more than welcome!

Get a grownup to help you!
I'd love to, but I don't know any.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 2:22 pm
by chewbacca
To be honest ,you'd be as well soldering the wires together and covering them with some glue lined heat shrink,as good a connection as you can get,gets rid of any faffing about with plugs /sockets, dodgy connections,water ingress and any chance of poor connections further down the line. and it's not as though you need to disconnect it on a regular basis.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:15 pm
by RK6
I'll give the glue lined heat shrink a try if I can find some in town (Maplin?)
The plug connects to the regulator rectifier so it needs to stay but I'll use your above suggestion to wire the stator to the plugs existing wires.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:35 pm
by Akrapovic
What's the odds on Rowan blowing something up?

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 3:42 pm
by RK6
O ye of little faith!

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:01 pm
by Dave
o ye of great faith looking forward to a firework show, going on past experience

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:27 pm
by RK6
I've now got all the kit I need & i'm determined to get this sorted tonight (before I start on the JD).
I may post a picture or two of the results (read: injuries) later.

Re: Electrical guru required
Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 7:14 pm
by chewbacca
Sorry Rowan, I actually meant get rid of the plug completely cut the plugs/sockets off, join the cables together,soldered preferably, then cover with glue lined heat shrink.Unless you specifically want to keep the plug/socket setup for any reason that's the way I would go.