AberdeenBikers

I've got an ancient B M W project bike that I need to get the brake bleed nipples out of, but they're carbon steel and bolted into aluminium.
So far I've snapped one and the other two are looking like going the same way if I use any more farce, tried heat and soaking with oil.

Any suggestions on how to remove these before I replace the calipers? They take an 11mm socket so drilling would be akward as I dont think I have a tap that will fit.
Any placed in Aberdeen likely to be able to bodge or drill these?

Just dump the whole bike and be done with it!

Didn't think tractors needed brakes

Have you reied a reverse tap into the small hole of the nipple?

There was somone on here mentioning about the banjo bolt with the bleed nipple bilt in here dunno where u get them from tho and it would solve that problem for you


OK after typing that i ebayed it http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DOUBLE-BANJO-BOLT ... 18Q2el1247

the ones that have snapped try drilling out and retaping the threads or a easiout . the one that hasnt snapped a bit of heat maybe

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memini wrote:the one that hasnt snapped a bit of heat maybe

Read the first post. He already tried that.

An internal easyout or reverse tap of that size will almost certainly snap off. You then have something stuck in the holde that is extremely hard to drill.

They need to be drilled out, but a hand drill is too dodgy, it will likely slip off the hard steel and into the aluminium.

There should be plenty of small engineering works in Aberdeen with a pillar drill that can do it with the caliper held tightly in a vice. Don't rush the the drilling rate either or the drill will bend off course. I don't have access to Abz directory though so maybe somebody can help out.

Drill them out to just under the thread size, hopefully the ramining piece will be easy to remove. Failing that, use a helicoil kit.

Replace the new ones with a small amount of copperslip or very high temperature grease on the threads.

i will ask my mate the name of this stuff again. i thinck it my be made by lock tight, but no sure, comes in a air o sole can. sort of liqweid nitregin spray on leave a minete i think boilt nipel etc shinks a bitt an comes oot. jobs a good one mate just called . lock tight freez and releace. hope that helps

SugR1 wrote: i think boilt nipel etc shinks a bitt an comes oot.

Jesus that sounds nasty...

As Gazza suggested, get someone to drill out the majority of the bleed nipple then get them to spark erode the rest.

Grant wrote:As Gazza suggested, get someone to drill out the majority of the bleed nipple then get them to spark erode the rest.

Ir as I said just put the lot in a skip and forget about that period in your life!

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote: as I said just put the lot in a skip and forget about that period in your life!

Remove Calliper mounting bolts with the correct sized spanner so as to not round off the bolts heads. Replace the bolts back into their holes so you don’t lose them later as these are usually a fine thread and hard to come by. Next remove the brake pipe make sure not to get covered in fluid as its corrosive stuff. Keep the Banjo bolt in the end of the pipe and the copper washers. Then move to garden either remove or open bin lid at throw in JOB DONE

The "classic" B M W has no banjo bolts, the brake lines screw directly into the caliper.
I'm going offshore today so I'll try the reverse tap and more heat before drilling them out. (then going to breaking point and getting another set).

The main problem (apart from me) is that the bolts are carbon steel and the claipers are aliminium, so they're held in with corrosion rather than just being tight.

I can't skip the bike, it's almost finished! All it needs is some brakes, the exhaust re-fitting and the fairing putting back on. Another couple of weeks and it could be finished. Probably .

speedaddictedberk wrote:so I'll try the reverse tap and more heat before drilling them out. (then going to breaking point and getting another set).

My money's on the tap breaking and the option of drilling them out being lost (along with the caliper).

well yes, I'd be amazed if it works but I'll try anyway.

A good engineering shop should be able to Mill em out for you ........
Think you are going to find that the cost of doing it all is going to be way more than sourcing new bits

teamemmenracing wrote:Think you are going to find that the cost of doing it all is going to be way more than the value of the bike

That's what I was thinking!

lock tight freez and release works

mig a weld onto the remaining part of the nipple allow to cool and repeat until you can weld a small nut on and simply unbolt.
the heat from the welding will also free off the threads due to the different expansion and contraction rates of the differing metals. have used this method many times with 100% success rate also works well on snapped stud in ally engine blocks

If you still don't have a welder give me a shout and I should be able to do it for you

I do have a welder, but I'm really crap with it. Which is weird considering the amount of time I've spent watching other people weld things!
I'll give you a shout when I get back.

speedaddictedberk wrote:I do have a welder, but I'm really crap with it. Which is weird considering the amount of time I've spent watching other people weld things!

A bit like your ability with bolts then!