AberdeenBikers

can someone please tell me if bike oil and car oil are different or the same
thanks topgun

there are dozens and dozens of different oils

I am sure the the odd car will require the same oil as the odd bike, but I cant see that happening very often outside of a track machine.

I suggest that you check the oil specification in your manual, and stick to that.

topgun wrote:can someone please tell me if bike oil and car oil are different or the same
thanks topgun

i doubt you will go far wrong by using Silkolene Comp 4 in your engine

topgun wrote:can someone please tell me if bike oil and car oil are different or the same
thanks topgun

Nope they are different Motorcycle oils and car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area is common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. In a car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction of a typical car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a car engine oil. The second area for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical car. Motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

Speak to Boydie he will sort you out with oil at half the price of the dealers (and its good stuff )

thanks for the info away to pm boydie now
cheers topgun

Car oil might make your clutch slip if you have a wet clutch (most do)

baldy wrote:

topgun wrote:can someone please tell me if bike oil and car oil are different or the same
thanks topgun

Nope they are different Motorcycle oils and car oils are very similar, with the exception of a couple of areas that are key to motorcycle operation. The first area is common sumps, or the use of motor oil, to lubricate and cool the transmission. In a car the transmission is lubricated by an ATF fluid, which has frictional properties required for transmission operation. In a motorcycle, where the transmission may be lubricated by the engine oil, an engine oil that does not have the same level of friction of a typical car engine oil will provide better transmission performance in terms of transmission lock-up and slippage. So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a car engine oil. The second area for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (breakdown viscosity) more quickly than a typical car. Motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

Speak to Boydie he will sort you out with oil at half the price of the dealers (and its good stuff )

To ensure its for a motorcycle engine oil check that it has a JASO M(or MA) rating this will mean there are no friction modifiers and is suitable for combined engine/gearbox/clutch.

Fully synthetics will generally be of a lower viscosity than minerals as the formulation is stronger and can operate at higher temps without losing its viscosity (VI -= Viscosity Index) and breaking down. With minerals they add a polymer to give multi-grade capabilities and under stress these will breakdown (shear). My rule of thumb is based on OEM's recommendations for viscosity look for the highest API and JASO ratings you can get as these meet latest requirements (eg API SL 10W-40 JASO MA2 is newer spec than API SG 10W-40 JASO M2). Most of the lube (I can't believe it's not butter!) majors have parts of there web site that will show you their recommend for your bike. Personally use fully synth di-ester based of which Valvoline do a very highly recommended one which is available from Boydie (that better Davie!! )

Car and bike oils operate under completely different circumstances.

For example - Know many cars that rev to 14000 rpm, have a wet clutch and integral gearbox?

Don't skimp. Oil is cheap when you compare the cost of gas and expensive when you use the wrong stuff.

Get the right stuff.

I use Yamalube 4-Stroke Engine Oil S 10W-40 on my R.6

Semi-Synthetic 4-Stroke Engine Oil 10W-40
10W-40 API SG
JASO MA

Features & Benefits:
Delivers the optimum mix of high performance and value
Suitable for all road bikes in normal conditions
The 10W-40 oil offers the precise, factory-recommended multigrade viscosity for your four-stroke Yamaha

Available in 1L and 4L bottles

The reason for using Semi-Synthetic it burns slower than fully-synthetic and saves me topping up the oil everytime.

cheers davie thanks for the oil, at a very good price

I've stuck with what Honda recommend, which is Castrol fully synthetic Power1 Racing 10w-30.