This evening I had the joined the exclusive club of folks that had snapped manifold bolts off in the block. Hopefully this one can be removed fairly easily by the right person so can someone be that person for me .... please?!?!
From the colour of the exhaust port it looks like the bike is running lean so it looks like the jetting will definetly need set up once the new exhaust system is on.
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).
Get the penetrating oil on it and let it soak over night
Can you get 2 nuts on the threaded section? if so try that first with some heat.
It looks like you can get a small stillson on the remaining portion but I would leave this for a last option (unless you are feeling brave)
Third option is to weld a nut onto the top of the stud and use that to turn it out.
HTH
I knew that it was going to be a bugger of a job when you said on the phone that "there should be enough light to complete the task of changing the headers"
Not enough thread for 2 nuts. Best option would be going straight for welding a nut on (where the stud snapped the thread is a bit ragged so would need tidied up to get a nut on).
I've never welded before and don't have any kit so are there any volunteers?
If you get a hold of the kit I will weld the nut on for you. But who ever has a welding set could probably do it in about 1 min as it is a "function over form" job does not have to look nice as long as it works.
Hi Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) ,your lucky (or unlucky depending on the way you look at it)you've a fair bit of stud left.I'd definately go down the heat route,set of mole grips as tight as you can get them on the stud,give it a good roasting,localised round the stud, with small gas torch and it'll come out.If it dosen't then youve still got the welding option,but convinced it'll come out with heat.Best of luck.
Looks like I have a few options open to me. Discussing the problem in the office this morning it sounds like welding should be the last resort and if I have to go down that route go for a MIG welder as they use less current.
The last thing I really want to do is end up turning the bike into a fireball!
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).
As zax says soak it in WD40 overnight. If you have some blue tack or plastercine make a well round stud to hold the
wd40 Overnight and let it soak down. Before you try with self grips or stilson. Give the stud a good few thumps on the top to loosen and rust down the threads in the head. Sometimes helps to try tightening it a bit before trying to remove it. And again weld nut to end of stud with MIg as it does not heat up as much as a stick welder.
Newbus wrote:As zax says soak it in WD40 overnight. If you have some blue tack or plastercine make a well round stud to hold the
wd40 Overnight and let it soak down. Before you try with self grips or stilson. Give the stud a good few thumps on the top to loosen and rust down the threads in the head. Sometimes helps to try tightening it a bit before trying to remove it. And again weld nut to end of stud with MIg as it does not heat up as much as a stick welder.
Luck Good
ive got another little plan after my purchase on sunday dude
Soak it in actual penetrating oil, WD is OK but I've been using Wurth stuff (got it from Breaking point) that's noticably better.
Heat the stud and surrounding area with a small blowtorch, then give it a good thump. Then attempt removal with molegrips or a small stilson.
If you can weld a nut onto the end it's better as the head input is massive and very localised.
The last hassle I had with the project bike took several cycles of heating with the blowtorch and cooling using WD40 do that the surrounding area was pretty hot and the stuck bolt was cooler, then mullering with a hammer and chisel to release. If you do this HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER CLOSE BY.
You have enough left to have a few options, if it does snap off Gibbs sell helicoil kits for about £25.
if the penetrating oil does not work get some heat on it (as above) and use some candle wax on the area. Not sore why it words so well but i swear it works so so well. (if you can get enough torque on the stud that is...)
if not weld a nut then still if not drill it and pull the threads out... (i dont trust easyouts at this size as it can turn in to a complete nightmare cause they are so tough that you'll need it machined out...) worst case helicoil...
It is basically the same design as the chuck on an electric drill except the teeth are serated for grip and the 1/2" drive at the other end tightens the chuck as you turn it anti-clockwise thus gripping harder the more you try to loosen the bolt.
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote:It is basically the same design as the chuck on an electric drill except the teeth are serated for grip and the 1/2" drive at the other end tightens the chuck as you turn it anti-clockwise thus gripping harder the more you try to loosen the bolt.
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian).
Where did you buy it Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) is there shop locally
Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) wrote:I spoke to soon. I removed that stud then the next two came out ok but the last one has snapped off flush with the head!
A 50% success rate is pretty poor, you must be even rougher than me!
Hope you have a good drill. Whatever you do don't use those evil reverse threaded "easy outs" as you'll probably be left with a lump of hardened steel to drill through too. Use the square hammer in ones if any.
Yup been there done that .......
Just in case there hasn't already been enough people saying it, don't use the reverse thread extractors!!! If they snap, or when they snap you have a whole new set of issues If it happens to me again I would go right to the heli coil option.......