sv 1000 suspension
- speedaddictedberk
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sv 1000 suspension
I need to set up my SV1000 to cope with my slightly higher than average weight (fat), not really got a clue where to start....
i've read loads of stuff, its all different!
so, anyone got some spare time to show me what to do?
i've read loads of stuff, its all different!
so, anyone got some spare time to show me what to do?
- al
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- silverburn
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I've pondered this very dilema, and read all the articles too, until I realised it actually handles perfectly well for my weight (5ft 8" tall, 11st 6lbs), and this was thoroughly tested in Dickie and I's trip to through the alps and pyrennes lasy year.
So my advice is - leave it alone, unless you're 13st or more.
The only real 'glitch' is the weave you get in some three-figure bends. At the track, of course, m'lud. But that just adds to the novelty... :I can't believe it's not butter!
Having said all that, I've put some new tyres on, and it simply refuses to drop into bends anymore - most noticeable on cold tyres (that'll be all the time at the moment). @rse.
So my advice is - leave it alone, unless you're 13st or more.
The only real 'glitch' is the weave you get in some three-figure bends. At the track, of course, m'lud. But that just adds to the novelty... :I can't believe it's not butter!
Having said all that, I've put some new tyres on, and it simply refuses to drop into bends anymore - most noticeable on cold tyres (that'll be all the time at the moment). @rse.
- speedaddictedberk
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umm, more than 13 stone..... i was 13 stone when i was a skinny 18 year old, now i'm 28 and fond of pizzas and cider (and cake!)
6'2" 17ish stone...... (i kinda feel sorry for the bike too...)
i find the bike feels a bit bouncy and soft , and its not tracking too well in faster corners, might be just me though.....

6'2" 17ish stone...... (i kinda feel sorry for the bike too...)
i find the bike feels a bit bouncy and soft , and its not tracking too well in faster corners, might be just me though.....
- silverburn
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it does weave a little, but it needs to be 100+ sweepers to bring them on for me. 'Normal' bends I find it very neutral.
At 17st, you might want to invest in a new set of spring and revalve, and maybe a new rear shock; I suspect (though I could be wrong) the standard settings won't complete cure the bouncies or the weaves even on maximum settings...
Or go on a diet! worked for me! was 13.5st myself, the bike handled like death; 6 months and 2st later, I was back to standard settings :I can't believe it's not butter!
That's the problem with curry & beer night out...I know I've got 60miles on the pushbike the next day to pay for it!
At 17st, you might want to invest in a new set of spring and revalve, and maybe a new rear shock; I suspect (though I could be wrong) the standard settings won't complete cure the bouncies or the weaves even on maximum settings...
Or go on a diet! worked for me! was 13.5st myself, the bike handled like death; 6 months and 2st later, I was back to standard settings :I can't believe it's not butter!
That's the problem with curry & beer night out...I know I've got 60miles on the pushbike the next day to pay for it!
- speedaddictedberk
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- speedaddictedberk
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The SV is a budget bike and fiddling with the suspension will not make much improvement. Having said that, IMHO it is better suited to shitty Scottish roads than any race replica. You need do nothing but ride it. Young Matt is no light weight and he manages pretty well.
White Power make an excellent little book which explains the black art of suspension tuning. It really depends on where and how you ride and of course on your own physical weight. As a rough guide, first set pre-load to suit your weight and desired static sag, then if it is too harsh you need to reduce compression if it pogoes you need to increase rebound. Take a note of the original settings!
Lowering the yokes will make it steer quicker, if you want that? Personaly I found the SV very easy to turn in, one of it's best features
Tyre pressure makes a huge difference. It is surprising how few check it regularly and most then rely on the garage gauge. Make sure you have an accurate gauge and use it once a week.
White Power make an excellent little book which explains the black art of suspension tuning. It really depends on where and how you ride and of course on your own physical weight. As a rough guide, first set pre-load to suit your weight and desired static sag, then if it is too harsh you need to reduce compression if it pogoes you need to increase rebound. Take a note of the original settings!
Lowering the yokes will make it steer quicker, if you want that? Personaly I found the SV very easy to turn in, one of it's best features

Tyre pressure makes a huge difference. It is surprising how few check it regularly and most then rely on the garage gauge. Make sure you have an accurate gauge and use it once a week.
- silverburn
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- speedaddictedberk
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cool, hadint actually checked the tyre pressures.....
setting the sag has helped, had to crank up the rear preload (shock!) then added some rebound damping at the rear to settle it back down. The front just feels a little vauge, and its this that i'm trying to sort (i understand that this might not be possible due to the components).
I'll be visiting halfords on fri then!

setting the sag has helped, had to crank up the rear preload (shock!) then added some rebound damping at the rear to settle it back down. The front just feels a little vauge, and its this that i'm trying to sort (i understand that this might not be possible due to the components).
I'll be visiting halfords on fri then!
- dale123
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- dale123
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I wouldnt recommend you use these slavishly, but they would give you some context as to what others do.
http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_susp_settings/
A great many settings, for a great many bikes.
http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_susp_settings/
A great many settings, for a great many bikes.
- al
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- al
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- speedaddictedberk
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right, when zooming round a constant radius bend i find it hard to get the bike to stay on line (this is'nt epic, but annoying), turned up the rear re-bound half a turn, the rear compression qaurter turn. the rear preload went up about 5mm, and an extra ring on the front preload.dale123 wrote:What does vague at the front mean? Do you have an example?
If the sags set already, what do you have the compression and rebound set at, and whats the range?
i'm happy enough with the rear as it is now, just dont know what to do with the front as its not bouncing or diving (since upping the pre-load).
it'll be fri till i get a new pressure gauge and some bike time in daylight, old gauge is fubar.
- speedaddictedberk
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- dale123
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OK, assuming you havent made any of the changes above to solve the understeer, Id say you need to up the rebound damping on the front.speedaddictedberk wrote:right, when zooming round a constant radius bend i find it hard to get the bike to stay on line (this is'nt epic, but annoying), turned up the rear re-bound half a turn, the rear compression qaurter turn. the rear preload went up about 5mm, and an extra ring on the front preload.dale123 wrote:What does vague at the front mean? Do you have an example?
If the sags set already, what do you have the compression and rebound set at, and whats the range?
i'm happy enough with the rear as it is now, just dont know what to do with the front as its not bouncing or diving (since upping the pre-load).
it'll be fri till i get a new pressure gauge and some bike time in daylight, old gauge is fubar.
Again assuming the scenario is brake, turn in, all OK, get on the gas and then you start running wide, then as you take weight off the front with the throttle the forks are extending too quick and changing the steering angle. More rebound damping on the front will slow that down, so you can finish the turn.
Thats only dealing with that specfic issue, and assuming everything else is right. Did you compare your settings to the SportRider ones?
- speedaddictedberk
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- speedaddictedberk
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- al
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- speedaddictedberk
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