Top Tips to Workshop Maintenance

blagger · Post by **blagger** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:26 am

While asking on another thread about a jet stuck in my carb, i had this idea of setting up a thread where you can share a top tip that you have for making bike maintenance that little bit easier. No matter how simple it my seem it might be a help too a nubile to biking..

If this thread takes off then maybe one of the admins could make it sticky...

blagger · Post by **blagger** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:32 am

OIL CHANGE:

An easy way to get your oil out your bike for an oil change is to run the engine first to get it hot.. then u need to allow the oil to settle after you have ran the engine. now the oil is warm and will run out faster when draining the engine.. since the engine is still warm when u put new innit will help the new settle quicker in the sump

tintin · Post by **tintin** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:54 am

Dismantling

If you're planning an extensive strip down of your bike, get yourself a camera, address labels and a roll of freezer bags.

Take pics before you remove anything, label it and put the fixings in a bag. Attach label and bag to the item and store safely.

When you get around to the rebuild, you have the correct fixings and reassembly sequence.

Sounds a bit OTT but you'll appreciate it when you stand back having just fitted the last bit of fairing and discover you've no bolts long enough to fit the bit lying under the bike which should've been fitted before you put the rear wheel back on..

cbr1100 · Post by **cbr1100** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:57 am

Obviously talking from experience mate :I can't believe it's not butter!

tintin · Post by **tintin** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:17 pm

cbr1100 wrote:Obviously talking from experience mate :I can't believe it's not butter!

Yup

speedaddictedberk · Post by **speedaddictedberk** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 8:47 pm

Don't get into the habit of drinking with your mates while dismantling a project bike, it makes it hellish to put back together when you can't remember taking it apart.....

coullstar · Post by **coullstar** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 10:56 pm

Open chequebook, leave at shop.

Only joking. There are loads of little tips however the best thing I have found is that if you are faced with an annoying fiddly problem that just cannot be completed then leave it for 24hrs and think about it rather than getting pissed of and potentially loving it up further.

blagger · Post by **blagger** » Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:34 pm

STUCK BOLTS:

If found with a stuck bolt, if possible heat it up with a blow torch or something like that then try undoing it as the heat expans the metal and can free the stuck bolt

speedaddictedberk · Post by **speedaddictedberk** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:08 am

If a stuck bolt has any wiring or oil/fuel leaks anywhere near it, use an impact driver instead of a blowtorch.

g.cowen · Post by **g.cowen** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:48 am

If the repair job does go pear-shaped, one can always blame the ex-wife !!

(only joking, Sherpa

)

Post by **Zathos** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 8:57 am

TOP TIP: Know your limits. If you are the type of person who cross threads bolts and has to think about which way to turn em to tighten then home maintenance is not for you.

Backs 400 · Post by **Backs 400** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:30 am

Top Tip,

Even of your bike has a centre stand, buy a paddock stand. They are much more stable and will prevent you pride and joy from crashing down against your mothers car!

Backs 400 · Post by **Backs 400** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:32 am

Top tip

If you have a Honda, buy a complete service kit from David Silver Spares. It is all genuine Honda parts and works out cheaper than buying individual parts from aftermarket companies.

Backs 400 · Post by **Backs 400** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:35 am

Top Tip

Buy a Torque wrench. Many bolts etc on a bike are critical, such as the rear axle bolt, caliper bolts etc. Getting things tightened to the correct torque is VERY important.

Also, when putting back calipers etc NEVER use the same bolts as the original ones will have been wekened and stretched slightly. They must be replaced and Loc-tited in place.

Backs 400 · Post by **Backs 400** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:38 am

Top tip

Because many parts on a bike are cramed into very small areas it can be difficult to get to bolts and nuts with a socket and ratchet handle. Buy some ratchet spanners, amazingly useful for tight spots.

Like these http://www.diytools.co.uk/diy/Main/Prod ... ctID=27137

blagger · Post by **blagger** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 9:42 am

TOP TIP:

Never rush a job. if you rush a job you will find you will make more mistakes and will take you longer fixing the mistakes than taking your time and getting it right the first time.

Post by al » Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:30 pm

Haynes manual translations :

Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.
Translation: Clamp with mole grips then beat repeatedly with
hammer .......................anticlockwise.

Haynes: This is a snug fit.
Translation: You will skin your knuckles!........on both hands.

Haynes: This is a tight fit.
Translation: Not a hope in hell matey!

Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...
Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start,
now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.

Haynes: Pry...
Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...

Haynes: Undo...
Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (catering size).

Haynes: Retain tiny spring...
Translation: "Jeez what was that, it nearly had my eye out"!

Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...
Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good
pliers to dig out that pesky bayonet bit.

Haynes: Lightly...
Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your
forehead are throbbing. Then re-check the manual because this cannot
be 'lightly' what you are doing now.

Haynes: Weekly checks...
Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it!

Haynes: Routine maintenance...
Translation: If it isn't broken... it's about to be!

Haynes: One spanner rating.
Translation: Your Mum could do this... so how did you manage to
botch it up?

Haynes: Two spanner rating.
Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a
low, tiny, 'widdle number... but you also thought the wiring diagram
was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more
use to you).

Haynes: Three spanner rating.
Translation: But Ducatis are easy to maintain right... right? So
you think three Ducati spanners has got to be like a 'regular bike'
two spanner job.

Haynes: Four spanner rating.
Translation: You aren't seriously considering this are you, you pleb!

Haynes: Five spanner rating.
Translation: OK - but don't expect to ride it afterwards!!!

Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...
Translation: hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Haynes: Compress...
Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear
at, throw at the garage wall, then search in the dark corner of the
garage For whilst muttering "bugger" repeatedly under your breath.

Haynes: Inspect...
Translation: Squint at it really hard and pretend you know what you
are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your
wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"!

Haynes: Carefully...
Translation: You are about to cut yourself!

Haynes: Retaining nut...
Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.

Haynes: Get an assistant...
Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you
know.

Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs
removed.
Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much
harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has
subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly
refit the spark plugs.

Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.
Translation: But you swear in different places.

Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...
Translation: Snap off...

Haynes: Using a suitable drift...
Translation: The biggest nail in your tool box isn't a suitable drift!

Haynes: Everyday toolkit
Translation: Ensure you have an RAC(AAA) Card & Mobile Phone

Haynes: Apply moderate heat...
Translation: Placing your mouth near it and huffing isn't moderate
heat.

Haynes: Index
Translation: List of all the things in the book except the thing you
want to do!

Post by **Zathos** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:41 pm

Oh how many of those do I recognise. :I can't believe it's not butter!

When all else fails, blind optimism will often sort out even the most hopeless cases

TIP: if you need to reseat valve spring cotters simple rotate engine until the required piston is at TDC and press down on valve spring with a set of large pliers (making sure not to press on the valve spindle). Then the cotter can simply be nudged back into place with a small screwdriver.

Sherpa · Post by **Sherpa** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:48 pm

Above all else:

FIT A LOCKABLE OIL FILLER CAP

Backs 400 · Post by **Backs 400** » Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:51 pm

Sherpa wrote:Above all else:

FIT A LOCKABLE OIL FILLER CAP

:I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! :I can't believe it's not butter! Oh dear!!!

procee · Post by **procee** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:54 am

TOP TIP:

Allow about twice as long to do a job as you think it will take. Especially something easy like throttle cable replacement, you'd be amazed the amount of other stuff you have ot take off to get to things.

procee · Post by **procee** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 10:55 am

Buy a genuine workshop manual for the porcedures and torque settings, then a Haynes for the photos.

coullstar · Post by **coullstar** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 11:52 am

First thing I ordered for my new bike was the w/shop manual and oil, it is British after all.

Sherpa · Post by **Sherpa** » Tue Jun 12, 2007 12:24 pm

procee wrote:Buy a genuine workshop manual for the porcedures and torque settings, then a Haynes for the photos.

If you can, get a Clymer Manual. Bit more practical and down to earth than Mr Haynes who only advises you how to work on a brand new bike fresh from the factory.

CBRXX · Post by **CBRXX** » Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:06 am

If you've sheared a mild steel bolt or stud in an alloy head/swingarm/frame weld a nut on to the offending bolt/stud the heat generated from the weld will also loosen up the tight thread allowing easy removal. always disconnect battery first .
And avoid easy outs (haynes translation your going to snap a high tensile steel stud extractor in place which will make removal 20 times more difficult without the option of drilling out

)