AberdeenBikers

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) ( Super Nanny ) wrote:

Shrek wrote:I have not been looking, why would I. I'm still waiting to hear why you would think "If you let a modern battery go flat it is almost impossible to recover"

Just because they are ....

.... OK!

Zathos wrote:You guys need to define 'flat'.

Zathos (MSc)

fazermal wrote:Flat; having lost evervescence or to generate electric current (Oxford)

Mal (QHSE)

yelloisfriedegg wrote:erm , thats Evanescence

A malapropism (from French mal à propos, "ill to purpose") is an incorrect usage of a word by substituting a similar-sounding word with different meaning, usually with comic effect.

yelloisfriedegg wrote:touche monsier :I can't believe it's not butter!

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) ( Super Nanny ) wrote:Looks OK to me dude.

Back to the battery discussion, here's a usefull site with a description of battery theory. http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html#8

Modern maintenance batteries can handle a deeper discharging cycle but as with any chemical device will still die if neglected.

Yours,

Big Kneed Al (master of the emergency stop & "stand up" comedian) ( Super Nanny ).
BEng (Hons) MIEE.

crankcase wrote:M+P have an Optimate III for £39.99. I'll do some more digging around but that seems a reasonable price to pay.
Do you know how long your getting out your battery using it ?

Missile wrote:and you would know all about THAT

Quote from Optimate web site=

If your battery is so badly discharged, or damaged, to the point where it has less than 2 Volts, it is probably irrecoverable. Take your battery to your local dealer and ask him to test it on a “BatteryMateâ€￾ tester/charger. He will be able to tell you the battery’s condition within a matter of seconds – a BatteryMate can also recover very deep-discharged batteries, if at all possible.

Battery i have running with bandit was properly fully discharged before i got it home (very little fluid in it), it will charge and run for all of a couple of days. Dont think Its keeping it's charge! But having been mulling over buying a new battery but i'm wondering whether i should wait til the fine weather comes as there won't be many days left to run out the bike?? but then is that dangerous? not planning long runs just short spells out and about local!

Missile wrote:Not "dangerous" but obviously you may get stranded. they are not expensive if you shop around and IMHO you would be better to get a new one now.

New Battery

momeg wrote:
Bandits xmas wish list

New Battery

Batteries wait for their new owners in a state of hibernation called dry-charged, which means the manufacturer has dried the preformed positive and negative plates, assembled the battery and sealed it in a bag that doesn't contain oxygen. It can sleep like this for two or three years without a problem.

Simple floating ball hydrometer indicates charge by the weight of the electrolyte. A fully charged batterys electrolyte is 26% heavier than water, so the more of the graduated balls that float, the higher the charge.

The biggest single harm that can be done to the life expectancy of a new battery usually occurs when it's sold. In the rush to get a new machine set up for sale or to get the customer out the door with his new replacement battery, many batteries are simply filled with electrolyte, installed and pressed into service within minutes of being unwrapped. Sound familiar? It's all wrong. What this procedure buys you is a battery that will never have more than 80% of its powerever! For this reason, many riders prefer to prep their new batteries themselves to make sure it's done correctly.

Here's the actual factory-recommended service procedure, and don't be too surprised if you've never heard it before.

First, unwrap the battery, unkink the vent tube and snip about a half-inch off the end, unless it's a maintenance-free type and doesn't have a vent tube. Next, fill it with electrolyte midway between the high and low level markings on the case. Next, let the battery sit for one or two hoursafter which the battery will still be at only 65% of full charge. Check the electrolyte level and add electrolyte if required. That's rightadd electrolyte. This is the only time in the life of your battery that you can ever add anything but water.

Now surprise you must still charge the battery. If it is a refillable lead-antimony type, it should be charged at one-third of its rated capacity in amp/hours for four to five hours to get it to full charge. Honda and Yuasa recommend that the maintenance-free type should be charged with a constant-current charger that can drive the charge with as much as 16.9 volts and closely monitored not to exceed full charge (another reason to buy a smart charger). Afterwards, recheck the level and add water if required. Finally, let the battery cool so the case contracts enough to fit into its typically tight little holder, run the new breather tube (if it has one) carefully through the original factory routing, being sure that it's well away from your chain and you're ready to go.

Backs 400 wrote:Battery????..My bike has a battery??? I thought it was petrol driven!!

My CBR just does not hold a charge any more...which is a tad annoying to say the least, and thats a pretty new battery. Having the same problem with a newish battery on one of my Landies..big heavy duty beast of a battery but the vehicle has sat for about 8 months and the thing just will not charge up..and at £180 for one..well....i could cry!